Day 3: Foret de Venasque/Vaucluse Plateau
Like any other day, we had lofty goals and a far off destination. This time I wanted to take an afternoon drive to Pernes les Fontaines in the Vaucluse Plateau. We left Apt in the early afternoon heading west on the N100 to the D4. The D4 is a beautiful drive through the Forest of Venasque following the side of the mountain sometimes and others cutting through narrow gorges until you come out in the north near Venasque.
Even on a dark and cloudy day, Provence once again was stunning and beautiful. The region immediately around Apt and the Vaucluse plateau are full of cherry orchards. And when I say full, I mean full! Every valley, every field, every slope had at least a small orchard and many had acres of orchards. This region of France is the largest source of cherries in the country and the pink seas of blossoms were a familiar sight to us.
We reached our destination of Pernes les Fontaines and found easy public parking near the old city. On Tuesday, the town was mostly deserted of both tourists and residents. Since Jacob was still not feeling well, our goal was to get a brief feel for mood and character of the town before he got exhausted and needed to go home.
Pernes is well known for their multitude of fountains. Everywhere that you turn, on every corner, in every niche there is a small fountain, and some are quite a bit more elaborate. Surrounding the old town is a large, medieval moat that has been turned into a lovely park with large willow trees shading it and access for bicycles via ramps in some places. The old town is clustered on a small rise with a Romanesque cathedral turned cultural center at its summit.
Pernes almost had us charmed to our toes. It is certainly beautiful, small, and we met some charming people but there was an underlying feeling that we got from the locals that reminded us of Williamsburg of all places. The persistent feeling we got from locals living within the old town was just like that you get from people who work and/or live in Colonial Williamsburg. There was this definite “townie” vibe - a “yes we choose to live here and that means that we ‘tolerate’ you tourists” sort of sentiment.
Now, before you go “well, what did you expect in a town that does rely on tourism as part of their economy and you’re a tourist?”, I will say that I expect to be seen as a tourist or visitor. I had my camera slung on my shoulder for goodness sake. I pride myself on being humble and appreciative in my role. I am polite, even when I have made a faux pas. But, there is a point where one expects at least a formal politeness reciprocated. And on this one Tuesday, in these short hours of the late afternoon, it simply wasn’t going to happen in Pernes. That does not mean that I am going to judge the whole town for four interactions had with locals in three hours. Hardly at all.
After a few failed attempts at interacting politely with locals, Jacob and I decided that clearly Pernes was a place we were going to rough out in solitude. Imagine our true delight at the idea of getting to wander around an ancient city without being “bothered”. After Jacob told me he was not going to climb the worn stone stairs to the top of old town, I agreed and accidentally walked him the long way around to the top of the town without any stairs. A coughing fit ensued and we relaxed under the plane trees just coming into leaf in front of the cultural center until we decided it was time to leave.
For our drive home, we headed back towards Venasque, but rather than taking the D4, we took the road that leads to the D15 and south towards Abbey de Senaque and Gordes. It was another gorgeous drive through a separate portion of the Foret de Venasque with again, large cliffs, steep gorges, and a hiking trail that taunted us to come back in better health. We decided to take the detour to the Abbey but upon reaching the gates and the parking lot realized that it would be a destination for a future trip. Without even leaving the car, we turned around and headed towards Gordes and on to home with Jacob sleeping most of the way.
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May 3, 2008 No Comments
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April 9, 2008 Comments Off
In Apt: The Apartment
Never were we more happy than when we finally found the door for La Madone. Nathalie met us along with Luna. We were promptly escorted next door to see what would be our home for the upcoming week.
Located in a large town house just across the quais from the old center of the town, La Madone is named for its most striking architectural feature, a large statue of the Madonna in an acolve along the top floor looking out towards the city.
Now, if only we had walked down the street in this direction rather than towards the prefecture, maybe we would have seen the large sign! But, the drama aside, the apartment is beautiful. We have rented the Appartement Lin for the week. From the above picture, it is on the top floor from the farthest arched window on the left (the kitchen), clear past the alcove of the Madonna (our bedroom!).
Since it is located on the third floor (American) of the town house without an elevator, it is not accessible to all people. It is, however, secluded and spacious for a rental apartment. A tiled, spiral staircase provides access to the upper floors. Another aspect of being on the third floor is the charming and well-thought out space of being beneath the rafters of the house. Being tall people, this is always a concern but the minimum clearance is six feet and it soars to between 9-10 feet in the main living area and higher in the bedroom.
Of all the apartments that were available, we requested the Lin for its spacious and airy kitchen with plenty of work surfaces. We wanted to be able to use the kitchen liberally for dinners and avoid eating out as much as possible. The kitchen fits the bill. There is a nice stove top, plenty of sautee pans and pots, the key utensils, a typical European fridge, an oven that works like a dream, and for when we are really, really, really lazy - a dishwasher. The dining table has four comfortable chairs and a large, heavy antique table that could easily sit for people for a long dinner.
The living room is decorated with two love seats, one of which is a sleeper. The furniture is in excellent condition and very comfortable to relax on. There is a coffee table and a small television. Notably, there is no phone in the apartment, but in this day and age with everyone carrying a cell phone, needing a calling card even if there was a phone, or not wanting a phone at all when on vacation, it really has us non-pulsed.
The bedroom has a queen sized bed that is an absolute dream. After several visits to France in rentals with lumpy or soft beds, this firm mattress was a dream come true when we collapse into bed each night. The bedroom itself is large enough to walk comfortably about the bed and you can just catch a glimpse of where we stored our suitcases near the alcove of the Madonna. There are two small windows and a fantastic skylight just over the bed. The skylight has a linen shade that keeps a good chunk of the sunlight out for Jacob who likes to sleep in, but provides ambient light during the day so you do not need to turn the lights on.
Finally, there is by all standards a fantastic bathroom considering our previous rentals. It is large, well designed, and the shower is tall enough that Jacob and I don’t need to bend over backwards to fit since the roof of the shower follows the pitch of the roof. Plus, there is a substantial water heater that provides nearly instantaneous and enough hot water for two people to shower and still have enough leftover that the water never runs cold.
The bonus of this apartment rental has been the amazing breakfasts our hosts provide each morning. The drinks are to order - tea for Jacob and coffee for me. The tea is a high end darjeeling and my coffee is that lovely dark and robust that I expect while living in France. The orange juice is real. Orange juice is one of those things that I think East Coasters take for granted. With Florida just a long haul truck away, living on the East Coast we have access to the most delicious orange juice year round at a minimal cost. When traveling outside of the US, we have found it more difficult to get a premium orange juice and tend to avoid it all together. The juice provided with our breakfast in the apartment might as well have come from or own fridge at home when it comes to quality. But, enough about the glory of orange juice. The bread basket includes two croissants, two pain au chocolate, and two small pieces of baguette sourced from Le Fournil de Luberon. Fresh strawberry and apricot jam are provided along with some butter.
Everything but the baguette is consumed by the time we finish a leisurely breakfast at the table. With the leftover baguette and jam, we make sandwiches to take with us on the road each day. I feel five years old eating jam sandwiches again!
The decor and the ambiance are a delightful aspect of our apartment. Nathalie and Bernard are antique collectors/dealers. Nathalie puts considerable time and energy into creating decor that fits seamlessly together. I love the chocolate brown accent wall and poured concrete counters in the kitchen. I never thought that dove grey could look good in a bedroom, but the neutral palette scheme works in creating a soothing oasis from the riot of color that awaits us every time we leave the apartment and go adventuring. The furniture is just enough and each piece is purposeful. Bernard has clearly spent considerable time renovating their home and the apartments to have all modern features necessary to live for extended periods.
What we truly love about the apartment:
- An honestly good mattress
- A large water heater
- Lots and lots of sunlight even on a rainy day
- Enough room for two 6′ + people to stretch out and relax
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April 9, 2008 No Comments
Day 1: Lost in Apt
The nice thing about roundabouts is that they are perfect for U-turns. And this far out into the countryside, most roundabouts are single lane so you don’t need to compete with three lanes of traffic for priority.
While the N100 led us right to Apt and even to the square that our apartment was located near, there were a few snags. First, in Apt not all streets are clearly marked. Sometimes the sign is on the opposite end of the street you’re on and you just need to make an educated guess. Second, even if there are street signs, you probably can’t see them from your car. I have come to believe over the years in my trips to France that street signs are for pedestrians, not drivers.
So, we parked in the Place du Faubourg in Apt and quietly considered our options. It was a lovely place to sit with a plane tree overhead and two benches in the center. We looked down the streets to the west of the square and were chagrined as we searched for 66 Faubourg du Ballet. We knew that the GPS had us in the right spot but not quite as exact as we needed. After 15 minutes in the late Sunday afternoon we decided to head into the town center and see what we could get for directions.
(And, of course, Jacob’s blackberry would choose this particular moment to not have any reception, so we could not just call the owners of the apartment directly!)
Finally, we found a very kind police officer who pulled out the map in his office and gave us the logic of the street name that made perfect sense. Faubourg du Ballet = Rue du Ballet off of Place du Faubourg.
All along we were just a few hundred feet from our apartment!
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April 8, 2008 No Comments
In Apt, Safe and Sound
Just a little note to say that we made it safe and sound. There were a few delays at Dulles and we were considerably jet-lagged yesterday. We just got internet access in the apartment this morning. We’ll write more tonight!
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April 7, 2008 2 Comments
Packing Clothes for Your Trip to Europe
… or five reasons why you should stop worrying and love your existing wardrobe.
If you read many of the websites for travelers, you would think that Americans were absolutely obsessed with how to dress when traveling to Europe so that no one will mistake them for a visitor. We all get a little nervous when in new situations, but let’s practice some common sense.
Myth #1: Dress right or be a target for crime.
If the Italian teenage girl wearing a fur collared puffy ski jacket, worn blue jeans, and gold lamée tennis shoes in the middle of the Louvre’s plaza, chittering away with her friends, frantically avoiding the nun escort for her group, and completely unaware of her surroundings is safe from pickpockets just because she’s European, then — we’re doomed.
Truth #1: Pickpockets are opportunists.
What you wear has little to do with how a pickpocket selects a mark. Pickpockets look for quick opportunities where their mark is completely distracted (often by an accomplice) and has a high probability of a big payoff. You could be a business person, a fashionista, a college student, or just your good old self. If you’re distracted, overburdened with luggage, or indiscreet with your personal behaviors, then you could be wearing the latest Gucci suit and still become a mark.
Myth #2: Wear black all the time.
This myth has interesting roots in a half truth. When you are traveling in large urban areas, visiting major tourist attractions, most likely you are on the edge or near large business districts. By tradition, in these large urban areas white collar business people are going to be dressed in traditional suits of somber colors - black, navy, and charcoal gray. Dress like a business person in a business district and you’ll blend in just fine.
Truth #2: Wearing black can make you stand out like a sore thumb.
In the United States, an overabundance of black/somber dress is almost always associated with East Coast and more specifically New York City. Once on a flight from NYC to Portland, Oregon, we had a stop over in Denver. We called it the black leather/plaid switch off. So, if you’re visiting any major European city, you can’t go wrong, but get outside of the suburbs of these regions and you’re going to get funny looks and some people will treat you differently (and not altogether positively sometimes) because they’ll think you’re city and not local.
Myth #3: Jeans make you look like an American.
Sure, the United States is the home of jeans but did you know the home of denim is Nimes, France? (de Nimes = denim). Yes, in the past jeans were not all that popular in much of Europe but with the falling dollar and the fashion industry’s interest in “Western wear”, jeans have become more common throughout Europe, especially with the younger generations.
Truth #3: Well tailored jeans can be chic.
Even in the United States, the style of jeans has changed completely in the last ten to twenty years. For women, you can get denim pants that are styled in the same cuts as several styles of trousers. A pair of fantastic shoes, a well-cut blouse, and a flattering pair of jeans allow you to be comfortable without ironing your pants every morning. And honestly? If casual is your style, then they are the perfect pants.
Myth #4: Tennis shoes make you American.
Just like jeans, the regional source of a fashion item does not mean it is a bad thing.
Truth #4: Sometimes tennis shoes are a practical choice.
Refer back to my sentence about the Italian teenager in the gold lamée tennis shoes. Like jeans, sportswear such as tennis shoes has permeated the youth culture in Europe from its fashion beginnings in the United States. But, more importantly, cross-trainers and the like can be very comfortable when you are walking several miles a day. You don’t want to wear them into a Michelin star restaurant, but they will keep you from getting blisters or sore ankles at the end of a long walk.
Myth #5: Americans lack style.
It is stunning who the culprit is in the case of this myth - pretentious Americans. It is a case of internalized stereotypes and an inferiority complex. If you listen to them, we all wear white tennis shoes and track suits whenever we travel. Whenever someone needs to generalize to make a point, beware.
Truth #5: American fashion designers are world renowned.
If you need any assurances that Americans have style, check out this list of fashion designers. And what we don’t produce internally we import frequently. Even big box stores have their buyers go to fashion shows at home and abroad. You can have the latest common fashions from around the world for as little or as much as you want to spend.
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March 31, 2008 2 Comments
Essential Beauty Tips Before You Travel
Without a doubt, for women, sometimes our last thought before our relaxing vacation is to take care of ourselves. We’re too busy making sure that the luggage is packed, the house is cleaned, and that the rest of our family is ready to take time off. For the last three years now, I have settled into a pre-travel health and beauty routine that ensures that my body is as ready for vacation as my mind. This is no secret or special treatment that costs you those precious dollars you saved for your vacation. These are things that we do for ourselves daily but often forget to do when we’re too busy to take care of everything else. They’re so simple, yet we’re willing to sacrifice them regularly in our day-to-day routines.
Have your hair cut before you take off.
Changes in the environment will only exacerbate hair issues. At least a week and no more than a month before you leave on your trip, get your hair cut to take care of split ends, too long bangs, or other unruly problems that you might be more lenient about at home. Whether you are staying with a friend, in a hotel, or renting an apartment abroad, you are not going to have the same time or space to do your entire hair routine like you would at home. Double check with your stylist that you are using a proper shampoo or conditioner for your hair type. Also ask your stylist for tips on low-maintenance ideas for your hair style that still allow you to look fabulous! If you have your hair colored, this also gives your hair time to relax and the color to settle before the stress of your trip. Finally, you get a week to practice some simple techniques rather than fighting with your style out on the road.
Make water your drink of choice.
We all know it and every beauty magazine promotes it, when we drink more water our body is able to clean out impurities faster and more efficiently. While we may be able to relax on our vacation, our bodies go through the stress of a changed environment. Start at least a week before your vacation and make water your drink of choice. Also, cut back on alcohol and caffeinated beverages — both are culprits for tired, bloodshot eyes along with other stress factors.
Go ‘au natural’ with your manicure.
Ditch the colored nail polish before your trip or you’ll regret those photos with your bright chipped polish. Nail polish takes up room in your bags and the risk of a leaked or cracked bottle in our luggage is just not worth it. For your manicure, exfoliate your hands and feet, trim up the cuticles, file down your nails, and buff them to a high shine. With a good hand lotion in your travel bag, you’ll look neat, trimmed, and elegant when you reach for your drink at dinner.
Reduce salt & fat in your diet.
High sodium levels and using table salt on everything leads to water retention and discomfort. Greasy foods lead to oily skin and indigestion. When you lower the amount of salt and fat in your diet, your complexion will be tight and glowing rather than greasy and sallow. A low sodium, low fat diet is a way of life for me every day but when I know I’m about to spend hours on a plane, I become extra cautious. The last thing I want is to feel run down or ill at the beginning of a vacation.
Supplement for balance.
If you don’t already, consider adding a multivitamin supplement to your daily routine. While we may try to keep a balanced diet that gets us all of the vitamins, minerals, and oils that our bodies need, sometimes we just don’t get it all done. At the very least, vitamin C on a regular basis keeps you from needing to hit the super-C remedies when you feel the sniffles coming on and vitamin B keeps your energy levels even.
Get strict about your beauty routine.
Life happens and we’ll skip washing our face if we didn’t wear makeup (or even if we did!) before going to bed. Or, we’ll decide that we’ll skip cleanser or lotion to save a few minutes. When you know your beauty routine, you know exactly what you’re going to need to pack and how long it takes you to get ready. If you’re only going to wash your face once a day, make sure that it is at night. During the day we actively work to cleanse our face and our body sweats to clear pores. At night, our face is snuggled against a pillow and all that dirt gets trapped on our skin resulting in overnight breakouts. Makeup and oil covered pillowcases also reinfect our skin night after night. Cleanse, tone, and moisturize at least once (preferably twice!) a day at least two weeks before your trip and you’ll look as refreshed as you deserve to be for your vacation.
Fall in love with your moisturizer.
Changes in weather, spending time in air conditioned or recirculated air, and just the stress of travel distresses our skin. I have combination skin depending on the season. I get very dried out in the winter and very oily in the summer. Knowing your skin type is key to using the right moisturizer to prevent breakouts. If you have combination or oily skin, use a water-based moisturizer to minimize extra oils and clogging pores. If you have dry skin that needs deep care, choose an oil based moisturizer to provide longer deep treatment. Even though my day-to-day moisturizer is water-based, if I know I am going to be on a train or plane flight for longer than an hour, I use an oil-based moisturizer to combat the drier conditions.
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March 27, 2008 1 Comment
A Bit on Tibet
We don’t usually write about politics in our blog. It’s a rather personal affair in our home. But, Tibet troubles us greatly. Nearly a year and a half ago now, Jacob and I had the fortune to visit Lhasa as part of an extended trip to China.
Never have we smiled so much that our faces ached at the end of each day.
Never have we met so many, oppressed and impoverished, who face each day with hope and kindness.
Never were we more aware of the Chinese domestic policies towards ethnic minorities.
All of the above photographs were taken during our tour of Drepung Monastery. At the monastery, we were able to observe many of the monks during their morning prayers and care of the temples. We will never forget the monk who stopped us in one of the alleys with a huge grin. In a series of pantomime and gestures, he compared his height to ours. He clearly took pride in being one of the tallest monks at the monastery and was delighted to run across two tall and gangly Western tourists.
The images of Lhasa these past few days are foreign and strange to us. In one showing cars burning in front of Jokang Temple, I at first didn’t believe it was in Lhasa. We had walked the Lingkhor, Barkhor, and Nangkhor with other pilgrims - crowded and hot in the summer sun. The Barkhor market was a throng of activity and my first taste of shopping outdoor markets in China. Inside the temple, as we circumambulated, we again witnessed monks caring for their temple. I will always remember the two monks carrying in what had to be at least a 100 lb cast iron kettle of steaming hot rice stored behind an altar.
As a Bhuddist, my heart aches and I am deeply troubled by what is taking place in Tibet. There is never an easy solution to a problem, but one that brings about violence on anyone’s part, cuts deeper. Violence brings further suffering to a people who already carry the burden of their spiritual leader exiled and the weight of a national government that fears free thought.
I wish the monks of Drepung continued safety and peace in their protests that they may relieve the suffering of so many Tibetans.
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March 19, 2008 No Comments
Provence: A Place to Stay
Our first trip to Paris was the first time we rented an apartment rather than staying in a hotel. It made us into believers that staying for periods longer than a week and having a truly “home” base is the best way to completely buy into the vacation mind set. By staying local and digging deep into the activities and resources of a community, we think we are able to truly appreciate the culture of our destinations.
Vacation rentals are a highly popular option in Europe. In some neighborhoods and towns, the overwhelming majority of residences can be vacation rentals. Vacation rentals differ slightly from home exchanges or bed and breakfasts. They are often dedicated properties and may be one of several offered by an owner.
A more detailed explanation of vacation rentals is available at Slow Travel. There was recently a discussion in the community about how to tell if a rental listing is reputable.
My first stop for considering vacation rentals in France is VRBO.
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March 18, 2008 No Comments
Provence: The Books for Planning
As we sat in Borders, we began to consider how we were going to plan for our trip to Provence. As with so many places in this world, there are a pile of travel books - some good, some not so good, some completely useless. We looked at dozens of books by individual authors and some well regarded travel publishers. Here are the core books that we chose to help guide our trip.
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March 2, 2008 No Comments
