Provence: The Books for Planning
As we sat in Borders, we began to consider how we were going to plan for our trip to Provence. As with so many places in this world, there are a pile of travel books – some good, some not so good, some completely useless. We looked at dozens of books by individual authors and some well regarded travel publishers. Here are the core books that we chose to help guide our trip.
Provence and the Côte d’Azur (Lonely Planet, 5th Ed.): We have a soft spot for Lonely Planet: ‘All you’ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over. So go!’ With their emphasis on impulsive adventuring that doesn’t need to leave a gaping chasm in your bank account, it is a philosophy near and dear to our hearts. We immediately appreciated the food & drink section of the book. Rather than the usual ‘visit this restaurant, then this one, and if you don’t eat at Deux Garçons you shouldn’t have come at all’ attitude of other books, the food & drink section highlights on a month by month basis what is fresh and local. This is exactly what we’re looking for — what are we likely to see in the outdoor markets in April (chèvre and the end of the olive oil pressings have us quite excited!). While it is not an outdoor enthusiast’s complete guide, Lonely Planet always appreciates that their readers like to get off the beaten path. We look forward to cycling a day or two. Overall, the book is organized by regions. It cross-references nearly everything with margin notes and pull-out boxes. Specific information provided is practical, short, and to the point. Black and white printing, minimal glossy photos, it is a quick look up sort of reference.
See It Provence and the Côte d’Azur (Fodor’s, 2nd Ed): Fodor’s is another favorite for budget travel information. While they do include budget information, it is not by any means their only focus. The See It series is their condensed regional information. It is of the glossy photo sort of book, but that’s sometimes a good thing. Organized on themes such as sights, activities, walks, and eating/sleeping, it requires flipping about the book a bit if you want all of the information of a region. One of the most useful aspects of this guide is its three ratings for each sight: historic interests, photo stops, and walkability. These three ratings speak to the heart of our goals on our trip, especially the opportunities for photography. The transportation information is useful and there is a decent map section detailing many local roads.
Provence Green Guide (Michelin, May 2007): An alphabetical by city listing of all interesting sights in the region, it is the backbone of any French trip. Most websites and other guides make reference to Michelin’s guides or maps. If a sight or town is worthy of a Michelin rating, that rating is also included. Ratings, schmatings, but it’s good to know what to absolutely avoid sometimes. (Not to mention how to recognize a massive tourist trap.)
Drive Around Provence and the Cote d’Azur: This was the find of our book search. It contains 25 driving tours in the entire region. This is a rare visit where we will be renting a car in order to get around our destination and we plan on indulging our adventuring spirit with some of these suggestions as a starting off point. Drives are organized by regions and include detailed maps, directions, information about the main sights on the route, some photographs, logistical information for sights, and a comprehensive rating system.
Village Walks: Provence: 50 Adventures on Foot: This little box caught our eye on the shelves at Borders and was the only thing we bought on that day. Walking around towns and villages is one of our favorite activities. We appreciated the terse information, simplistic map, and suggested routes for walking these small towns. The only downside of this set for us is that the largest concentration of walks is in the Bouche du Rhone and the Var, two regions of Provence that we’re not as interested in as much as we are interested in the Luberon and the Haute Alpes.
Roman Remains of Southern France: This book was not part of our initial find but after much searching and a convenient alumni membership at the George Mason library, we got it. It is perhaps the most comprehensive listing of Roman ruins in Provence and adjoining areas. It was perfect for our goal to see some of the most preserved or remote ancient sights in Provence. Each entry has detailed information about the type and availability of the sight. It includes information about geographical locations and relics within museums. Detailed, and often honest about whether or not the sight is worth visiting. It also includes non-public or privately locations clearly identified as accessible or not.
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